Are you looking for a summer crochet top project? My easy crochet top pattern is suitable for beginners (bonus, you probably have the yarn in your stash already).
If you can chain and use double and treble crochet stitches (UK terms) you’ll be able to follow my pattern.
Over the past few months, I’ve crocheted a few summer tops for myself from bought patterns and a couple I’ve created. I get so absorbed in working through a design project that I forget to write it down to share with you. I made a conscious effort to get this written down and took photos!
You don’t need to increase/decrease as there is no shaping needed on this crochet top pattern. You don’t have too many ends to sew in either (takes me ages to sew my ends in!).
The repetitive rhythm of the pattern is meditative. You may even find that a side effect will help you to find your centre and balance.
Crochet Top Pattern
Abbreviations (UK terms):
St/s – stitch/es
Tr – treble crochet
Dc – double crochet
Sk – skip
Rep – repeat
Rs – right side
Pm – place marker
Use any weight fibre and corresponding hook. You might like to consider cotton or a cotton mix as this is a summer top. For my sample I used DK 250g and a 4mm hook.
The summer top is created by crocheting two identical rectangles.
Sizing – for your foundation chain either take measurements from a top that you already own and feel comfortable wearing or measure yourself.
If you measure yourself, don’t forget to add extra chains for positive ease. You will want to have room for movement.
If you prefer your top to be figure hugging, you might want to reduce the number of chains.
Something to keep in mind when crocheting your foundation chain is the stretchiness of the fibres in the yarn you’re using. Some fibres have more stretch. Keep measuring your foundation chain and adjust if necessary.
Pattern is in multiples of 8 + 8. When you work out your foundation chain, add one for your turning chain (the first row is double crochet).
The rest of the pattern uses treble crochet. I prefer chaining 2 as my turning chain because the space between stitches at the start of a row is less obvious and doesn’t have a gap when you sew the side seams. Chain 2 in this pattern counts as a stitch.
Row 1 : Dc across, ch2, turn
Row 2: 1st block *tr in next 8 sts, 2nd block *ch1, sk 1, tr in next st* *rep four times* These two blocks of 8 sts form the pattern. Rep blocks across, ch 2, turn
The image below shows 8 tr st and ch1, sk1, tr in next st (4 repeats)
Row 3: This is your alternating row. If you ended row 2 with tr 8 sts then you will need to start with ch1, sk1, tr in next st.
Repeats of rows 2 and 3 form the pattern.
Continue in pattern until your desired length.
Final row : ch1, dc across.
Fasten off leaving a longer tail which will be used to sew the shoulder seams.
Make your second rectangular panel.
The image below shows how your rectangles should look.
With rs of both rectangular panels facing inwards, measure neck opening and use pm to show you where you are going to sew the shoulder seams. Originally I left a neck opening of 10″ but my yarn was stretchy and I adjusted it to 8.5”.
Make sure your measurements are equal on both sides. I used a pm for the centre of the panel to measure equally either side.
Sew shoulder seams.
Measure side seams leaving a gap for armholes. Start at the neckline and measure downwards. Use a pm to show where you are going to start sewing the side seam.
I left 9.5” for armholes because I like mine loose.
Sew in all ends to finish off.
I made a mistake on one of my rectangles – one block is solid tr for 9 st while the openwork is only 7 (instead of 8 and 8). You can’t tell though! As long as mistakes look ok and you can continue throughout the piece of work, I’m a great believer in leaving it. Especially if it means you don’t have to unpick lots of stitches (I’ve unpicked a few in my years of crocheting!). Crochet is very forgiving.
I would love to see your makes! Tag me on Twitter @shazgoodwin or send me an email firstname.lastname@example.org