This pattern is for a lightweight short sleeve crochet cardigan that uses a patchwork design featuring filet crochet hearts. I’ve seamlessly integrated the patchwork design without the need for stitching strips together.
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Divided into manageable sections, my short sleeve crochet cardigan pattern guides you through each step, from creating the lower panel with filet hearts to seamlessly transitioning into the upper mesh panels for the front and back. Simple shoulder seams bring the garment together. Finally, the sleeves are worked directly onto the garment.
Haven’t worked filet crochet before? Don’t worry, it’s easy. Filet stitch patterns are made up of open meshes and solid meshes using single crochet, double crochet and chains to form shapes. I used an easy filet pattern in my summer top and a more intricate pattern in my Galana blanket pattern to make a Greek key.
Why you’ll Love Crocheting this Short Sleeve Cardigan
Supplies and Materials
- Yarnsmiths Pebble Haze DK (Shade 2C170 Fluorite) see amounts in Measurements section
- 5mm / H-8 crochet hook
- Stitch markers
- Scissors
- Yarn needle
Yarn Choices
I already had Yarnsmiths Pebble Haze DK in my stash (it was a really good deal when it was on sale!). I knew how it worked up for my lacy summer cardigan so when I had the idea for this short sleeve cardigan, I knew the drape would be fab.
Pebble Haze is a blend of 67% cotton and 33% acrylic making it easy to care for. This DK weight yarn comes in balls of 50g / 145m /159 yds.
I had a look on YarnSub – there are some substitutions but the closest match is 90%, I think due to this being a blown yarn rather than spun. If you can’t get hold of this yarn you can still adjust the gauge for fit but the drape might be different.
Gauge
15 stitches and 12 rows on a 5mm hook = 10cm X 10cm.
Glossary
Stitches
You will need to be familiar with these stitches for the pattern:
US crochet terms
- Single Crochet (sc)
- Double Crochet (dc)
- Slip Stitch (sl st)
For my UK crocheters, the table below is a conversion of basic crochet stitches from US to UK.
US Crochet Terms | UK Crochet Terms |
---|---|
single crochet (sc) | double crochet (dc) |
half double crochet (hdc) | half treble crochet (htr) |
double crochet (dc) | treble crochet (tr) |
treble (tr) | double treble (dtr) |
double treble (dtr) | triple treble (trtr) |
Need help on how to work these stitches? Follow the instructions in my crochet stitch library.
Abbreviations
The following abbreviations are used in this pattern.
Abbreviation | |
Chain | Ch |
Each | Ea |
Remaining | Rem |
Repeat | Rep |
Skip | Sk |
Stitch/es | St/s |
Wrong Side | WS |
Garment Measurements
These are the final measurements and yarn amounts for your cardigan.
Sizes are based on guidance from the Craft Yarn Council.
Size | Actual Width (inches) | Actual Length (inches) | Amount of Yarn (yards) TOTAL |
S | 38 | 26.5 | 998 |
M / L | 44 | 27 | 1149 |
XL / 2X | 52 | 28 | 1372 |
3X / 4X | 60 | 28.5 | 1584 |
5X | 64 | 29.75 | 1746 |
How the cardigan pattern is worked
I wanted to include filet crochet hearts in a patchwork style as part of the cardigan design but without having to work in strips and sew them together! Working in rows and building ‘faux’ squares worked really well. The maths was a bit of a nightmare but I love how it looks in the finished garment.
To give the garment stability I’ve alternated a row of double crochet, skip a stitch with a row of single crochets for the mesh.
- The lower panel is the length from the hem to the underarm and is worked in two blocks of ‘squares’. The panel begins with working the filet technique to create the heart squares. This is followed by working squares in a row of [double crochet, skip a stitch] and a row of single crochet. These two rows alternate to form a mesh. This part of the pattern is worked in rows.
- The pattern then divides for the fronts and back which is worked from the armhole to the neck. The pattern continues to work in rows in the mesh stitch.
- After crocheting the lower and upper panels (in one piece) the shoulders are seamed.
- The short sleeves are worked directly into the armholes of the garment in the same mesh stitch. Rounds are joined with a slip stitch and turned.
And that’s it!
Related Crochet Cardigan Patterns
- Suitable for wearing all year, you’ll have this two-row repeat cardigan worked up in no time
- Worked in 7 rectangles, the Selene long cardigan looks great worn with a dress or t-shirt and jeans.
- Planning your summer makes? This bright striped cardigan, long-sleeved cardigan or lacy summer cardigan could be just what you’re looking for. Alternatively, browse these free summer crochet cardigans for inspiration.
Short Sleeve Summer Cardigan Pattern Notes
- Pattern is written in US crochet terms.
- Size instructions are written thus S, (M/L, XL/2X, 3X/4X, 5X).
- Repetitions are denoted with * for example, *ch1, sk 1 st, dc in next st, * rep to last 2 sts
- A combination of stitches and how many times worked is shown thus [ ] for example [ch1, sk 1 st, dc in next st] 3 times, dc in next 14 sts, [ch1, sk 1 st, dc in next st] 2 times, ch1, sk 1 st, dc in next 3 sts
- Chain 1 does not count as a stitch.
- Turning chain 2 counts as a double crochet.
- Chain 2 for the sleeves counts as single crochet, chain 1
- Single crochet rows are worked on the wrong side of the garment
- The body of the cardigan is worked in rows and turned. The sleeves are worked directly into the armhole in rounds, joined with a slip stitch and turned.
- Stitch markers are used for dividing the fronts and back. The yarn is rejoined in the loop being held on the stitch marker.
- Weave in ends as you go.
Skill Level
Easy
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Included in the crochet cardigan pattern is:
- how the pattern is worked
- pattern notes
- clear written instructions
Short Sleeve Crochet Cardigan Instructions
With a 5mm / H-8 crochet hook
Ch 127, (158, 189, 222, 253)
Lower Panel
Foundation row: sc in 4th ch from hook, sc across, ch1, turn (124, 155, 186, 219, 250 sc)
Row 1: sc in base of ch1, sc across, ch2, turn
Row 2: dc in next 2 sts, *ch1, sk 1 st, dc in next st, * rep to last 2 sts, dc in ea of last 2 sts, ch1, turn
Row 3: sc in ea st and ch1-sp across, ch2, turn
Row 4: dc in ea st across, ch1, turn
Row 5: rep row 3
Row 6: dc in next 2 sts, *[ch1, sk 1 st, dc in next st] 12 times, ch1, sk 1 st, dc in next 6 sts, *rep to last 4 sts, ch1, sk 1 st, dc in last 3 sts, ch1, turn
Row 7: rep row 3
Row 8: rep row 6
Row 9: rep row 3
Row 10: dc in next 2 sts, *[ch1, sk 1 st, dc in next st] 6 times, dc in next 2 sts, [ch1, sk 1 st, dc] 6 times, dc in next 5 sts, *rep across to last 2 sts, dc in last 2 sts, ch1, turn
Row 11: rep row 3
Row 12: dc in next 2 sts, *[ch1, sk 1 st, dc in next st] 5 times, dc in next 6 sts, [ch1, sk 1 st, dc in next 6 sts, * rep across, ch1, turn
Row 13: rep row 3
Row 14: dc in next 2 sts, *[ch1, sk 1 st, dc in next st] 4 times, dc in next 10 sts, [ch1, sk 1 st, dc in next st] 3 times, ch1, sk 1 st, dc in next 6 sts, *rep across to last 2 sts, dc in last 2 sts, ch1, turn
Row 15: rep row 3
Row 16: dc in next 2 sts, *[ch1, sk 1 st, dc in next st] 3 times, dc in next 14 sts, [ch1, sk 1 st, dc in next st] 2 times, ch1, sk 1 st, dc in next 3 sts, * rep across to last 2 sts, dc in last 2 sts, ch1, turn
Row 17: rep row 3
Row 18: dc in next 2 sts, *[ch1, sk 1 st, dc in next st] twice, dc in next 18 sts, [ch1, sk 1 st, dc in next st] once, dc in next 6 sts, *rep across to last 2 sts, dc in last 2 sts, ch1, turn
Row 19: rep row 3
Row 20: dc in next 2 sts, *[ch1, sk 1 st, dc in next st] twice, dc in next 8 sts, ch1, sk 1 st, dc in next 9 sts, [ch1, sk 1 st, dc in next st] once, ch1, sk 1 st, dc in next 6 sts, *rep across to last 2 sts, dc in last 2 sts, ch1, turn
Row 21: rep row 3
Row 22: dc in next 2 sts, *[ch1, sk 1 st, dc in next st] 3 times, dc in next 4 sts, [ch1, sk 1 st, dc in next st] 3 times, dc in next 4 sts, [ch1, sk 1 st, dc in next st] twice, ch1, sk 1 st, dc in next 6 sts, * rep to last 2 sts, dc in last 2 sts, ch1, turn
Row 23: rep row 3
Row 24: rep row 6
Row 25: rep row 3
Row 26: rep row 6
Row 27: rep row 3
Row 28: rep row 4
Row 29: rep row 3
Row 30: rep row 2
Row 31: rep row 3
Row 32 – 48: rep row 6 and 3 ending with row 6
Dividing for fronts and back
First Front
Row 49: sc in 27, (35, 42, 47, 55) sts, sk 4, (4, 4, 8, 8) sts and place a st marker in the next st, turn leaving rem sts unworked, ch2, turn
Row 50: rep row 6
Row 51: rep row 3
Row 52: rep row 4
Row 53: rep row 3
Row 54 – 65, (68, 71, 75, 78): rep rows 6 and 3
Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing the shoulder seam
Back
Rejoin yarn in loop at st marker
Row 49: sc in 62, (77, 94, 109, 124) sts, sk 4, (4, 4, 8, 8) sts and place a st marker in the next st, turn leaving rem sts unworked, ch2, turn
Row 50 – 65, (68, 71, 75, 78) rep instructions for first front
Fasten off.
Second Front
Row 49: sc in ea st to end (27, 35, 42, 47, 55 sc) sts, ch2, turn
Row 50 – 65, (68, 71, 75, 78) rep instructions for first front
Shoulder Seams
Working on the WS, lay cardigan out flat and fold over the right and left front. Sew both shoulder seams.
Sleeves
Working on WS, rejoin yarn underam with a sl st, ch 2 (counts as sc, ch1)
Round 1: sk 1 st, dc in next st, *ch1, sk 1 st, dc in next st, *rep around, rejoin with a sl st to 1st ch, ch1, turn
Round 2: sc in ea st around, join with a sl st, ch2, turn
Rep round 1 and 2 for a total of 16, (16, 18, 20, 20) times
If you prefer a longer sleeve, work more rounds
If you prefer a shorter sleeve, work less rounds
Fasten off
Congratulations, your cardigan is ready to be blocked and worn!
I’d love to know how you get on! Share your photos on Facebook or Pinterest.
Copyright Notice
The pattern and photographs of this design are the property of Sharon Goodwin at Jera’s Jamboree. This pattern and design are subject to copyright and are for personal, non-commercial use only. You may not share, resell, alter or redistribute this pattern in part or in whole. You may, however, sell any finished items you make. If you would like to include this pattern in a roundup, you may take one photo and link back to this pattern.