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Crochet Your Own Cardigan – Cozy, Stylish, and Quick to Make

I’m excited to share with you my latest design for what has turned out to be, my favourite chunky cardigan! Cozy and stylish, this layering piece checks all the boxes for comfort and functionality. Perfect for wearing on spring days as a jacket or you can layer during cooler months. 

Designed with an oversized fit, my Evie cardigan crochet pattern features a hood for added warmth, pockets to keep your hands warm, and a classic button closure. 

Made with a soft chunky/bulky yarn, my cardigan works up surprisingly fast, and its length is fully customizable to suit your style.  

I hope you love it as much as I do!

A woman is wearing a lime green cardigan in three images.  1) she is standing facing the front with her hands in her pockets 2) she is putting up the hood 3) the back view of the crochet cardigan

Keep scrolling for the free pattern below, or grab a convenient PDF version in my Etsy and Ravelry stores.

Don’t forget you can reach out in the Facebook group if you need help (not just from me but from other crocheters too).  I’d love to see your finished makes.

Why you’ll Love to Crochet my Chunky Cardigan

Practical Design: With handy pockets, a cozy hood, and a secure button closure, my cardigan is not just fashionable—it’s super functional for daily wear.
Versatile and Stylish: my design transitions effortlessly between seasons. Wear it as a jacket on crisp spring days or layer it for added warmth in the colder months.
Quick and Rewarding Project: Made with chunky/bulky yarn, you’ll have the satisfaction of completing a stylish and functional garment in no time.

Skills Used

I consider this is easy to make however, to help you decide whether this is the right project for you, here’s the skills you need to work my chunky cardigan

Crochet Stitches:

  • Double crochet (dc) body – fronts, back, sleeves, hood, pockets
  • Half double crochet (hdc) –  button band/edging
  • Single crochet (sc) – ribbed cuff
  • Single crochet back loop only (scblo) – ribbed cuff
  • Single crochet 2 together (sc2tog) – ribbed cuff
  • Front Post Double Crochet (fpdc) / Back Post Double Crochet (bpdc) – pockets

Techniques:

  • Decreasing for shaping fronts – working 2 double crochet together (dc2tog)
  • Decreasing for shaping hood – skipping stitches and leaving stitches unworked
  • Decreasing set up round for ribbed sleeve cuff – single crochet 2 together (sc2tog)
  • Button hole – chaining and skipping stitches
  • Sewing on buttons

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Supplies and Materials

You will need:

A crochet cardigan made from chunky/bulky yarn is hung on a coat hanger.  The same cardigan is styled on a mannequin

Yarn Choices

I used Scheepjes Chunky Monkey in the colourway Chartreuse to work this crochet chunky cardigan.

Although branded as Aran weight, having checked the wraps per inch (wpi) it is chunky weight coming in at 7 wpi.  Yarn is chunky or bulky at between 6 and 8 wpi, so this falls smack bang in the middle.  I’ve also changed up the recommended hook size of 5mm to 6mm to reflect the wpi.

If you would like to use the same yarn as my pattern, Chunky Monkey is available in over 90 shades, lots of colours for you to choose from.

It is lovely and soft to work with and to wear!

You can machine wash on a Synthetic Wash cycle at 40°C and tumble dry on a Low Heat.  It does wash up well and laid flat, dries quite quickly.  This yarn can be tumble dried and ironed on a cool heat – I’ve not tried this yet.

Here’s more information about this bulky weight yarn:

Fibre(s)Acrylic
FormatBall
Length (m)116
Length (yds)127
Ball Weight100g

Yarn Substitutions

Substitute any chunky or bulky #5 weight yarn. 

When you crochet your swatch for In the Limelight cardigan, pay attention to the drape and feel. 

If you’re happy with your choice of substitution but your gauge doesn’t match mine, don’t worry, you can use my stitch gauge converter to adjust your stitch count. 

A crochet jacket is being worn by a woman showing the side view with the hood up and the back view with the hood down

Gauge

Using a 6mm / J-10 hook

12 stitches and 6 rows of double crochet = 10cm X 10cm

Glossary

Stitches

You will need to know how to work these stitches:

  • single crochet (sc)
  • single crochet back loop only (scblo)
  • single crochet 2 together (sc2tog)
  • half double crochet (hdc)
  • double crochet (dc)
  • front post double crochet (fpdc)
  • back post double crochet (bpdc)
  • slip stitch (sl st)

Abbreviations

  • chain (ch)
  • chain space (ch-sp)
  • continued (contd)
  • each (ea)
  • left hand side (LHS)
  • remaining (rem)
  • repeat (rep)
  • right hand side (RHS)
  • right side (RS)
  • skip (sk)
  • stitch/es (st/s)
  • wrong side (WS)

Measurements

These measurements follow the Craft Yarn Council guidelines.

Model is wearing a size medium and is just over 5’ in height.

To Fit (inches)Width approx. (inches)Length (shoulder to hem) approx. (inches)Total Yarn (yds)
approx.
S 32 – 3443221076
M 36 – 3846231143
L 40 – 4248241214
XL 44 – 4652251290
2X 48 – 5055261372
3X 52 – 5458261424
Hood is the same measurement for all sizes: Total width approximately 18” X 15.5” length.

Pockets are the same measurement for all sizes: approximately 8” wide X 6.5” deep.
A cardigan is laid flat.  The same cardigan is styled on a mannequin showing the back and side aspect

How the Chunky Cardigan Crochet Pattern is Worked

To see the stitches used and how the cardigan is shaped, see the ‘skills used’ section.

I’ve included the image below to help you visualise the process.

After this I have included more information about the numbered images.

Numbered images to show the process of crocheting this chunky crochet cardigan 1) back and fronts worked in one piece 2) shoulder seams 3) sleeves 4) hood 5) buttonhole/edging and pockets
  1. The fronts and back of the Evie chunky cardigan are worked first in one piece in rows.   The back is worked to the armhole, then splits to work the first front followed by the back and finally the second front.
  2. Next, the shoulder seams are sewn.  Working on the wrong side, the fronts are folded over the back and lined up.  The seam is sewn along the top of the garment from armhole to neck.  This is repeated on both sides.
  3. Working on the right side, the sleeves are worked directly into the armhole by joining the yarn underarm and working in rounds.  The rounds are turned to keep the stitches the same as the body.  The yarn isn’t fastened off at the last round as the pattern proceeds to work the ribbed cuff.  This is repeated for both sleeves.
  4. The hood is worked directly onto the jacket in rows.  To avoid a pointed hood, shaping is in the middle of the hood.  The two separate sides are seamed together from the top edge.
  5. The button band/edging is worked next.  Yarn is joined at the hem and worked around the fronts and hood in rows.  Buttons are lined up with the button holes and sewn in place.  Finally the pockets are worked separately in rows, lined up and sewn in place.

I have a few cardigans that use this same construction.  You might like to check out these free patterns:

A woman is putting up the hood of a chunky jacket.  Text reads 'crochet jacket sizes S to 3X'

Customizing your Cardigan

It’s easy to alter the length of your cardigan.  To make yours longer, work more rows before the garment splits at the armhole.  For a cropped cardigan, work less rows.  Do not change the rows from the split to the shoulder because this will affect how comfortable your sleeve fits.

To remove the hood, you can skip those instructions and go straight to the edging.  Instead of working around the hood, you’ll work around the back of the neck.

To remove the buttons, work the edging without the skipped stitches.

If you change the pattern, you will need more or less yarn than recommended.

Pattern Notes

  • This pattern is written using US crochet terms.
  • Instructions for different sizes are written like this: S, (M, L, XL, 2X, 3X).
  • Repeated instructions in a row are enclosed like this *instruction* For example: sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog, *sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog, *rep around. You will work a single crochet in the next 2 stitches followed by working 2 single crochet stitches together and repeat this around.
  • Chain 1 does not count as a stitch.
  • Chain 2 counts as a double crochet.
  • Sleeves – make sure you work the same number of stitches in the first round for both sleeves.
  • Hood – the space between stitch markers is the width of the hood.
  • Buttonholes are made by chaining and skipping a stitch.
  • Pockets – make sure you sew through every stitch of the pocket to the fabric to secure without gaps.
  • Weave in ends as you go.
  • Read the pattern through before you start.
  • Using these pattern notes and how the cardigan is worked section will help you to be successful in your crocheting your garment.

Purchase the easy-to-read print-friendly PDF (ad free)

The PDF of this cardigan pattern includes everything you need:

  • how to work the stitches
  • how the pattern is worked
  • pattern notes
  • clear written instructions
Holding image for free patteren download. Text reads 'Free Ravelry Download Click here to redeem the code.'

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Chunky Cardigan Instructions

With a 6mm / J-10 hook

Body

Ch 110, (126, 142, 158, 174, 190)

Row 1 (RS): dc in 3rd ch from hook, dc in ea ch across, ch2, turn (108, 124, 140, 156, 172, 188 dc)

Row 2: dc in ea st across, ch2, turn

Row 3 – 25: rep row 2

*If you are customizing the length, work less than 25 rows for a cropped cardigan and more rows for a longer cardigan*

First Front

Row 26: dc2tog, dc in next 21, (25, 29, 33, 37, 41) sts, count 4 sts and place a st marker in the 4th st, ch2, turn, leaving rem sts unworked

Row 27: dc to last 3 sts, dc2tog, dc in last st, ch2, turn

Row 28: dc2tog, dc in ea st across, ch2, turn

Rep rows 27 and 28 a further 3, (3, 4, 4, 5, 5) times

Total rows 34, (34, 36, 36, 38, 38)

Row 35, (35, 37, 37, 39, 39): dc in ea st across

Fasten off leaving a long tail to sew shoulder seam

Back

With WS facing outwards, rejoin yarn in st after st marker, ch2

Row 26: dc in next 51, (59, 67, 75, 83, 91) sts, count 4 sts and place a st marker in the 4th st, ch3, turn, leaving rem sts unworked

Row 27: dc in ea st across, ch2, turn

Row 28 – 35, (35, 37, 37, 39, 39) rep row 27

Fasten off

Second Front

With WS facing outwards, rejoin yarn is st after st marker, ch2

Row 26: dc to last 3 sts, dc2tog, dc in last st, ch2, turn

Row 27: dc2tog, dc in ea st across, ch2, turn

Row 28: dc to last 3 sts, dc2tog, dc in last st, ch2, turn

Rep rows 27 and 28 a further 3, (3, 4, 4, 5, 5) times

Total rows 34, (34, 36, 36, 38, 38)

Row 35, (35, 37, 37, 39, 39): dc in ea st across

Fasten off leaving a long tail to sew shoulder seam

Shoulder Seams

Working on WS, place cardigan flat, fold fronts over back and line up.

Sew shoulder seam

Rep on other side

Fasten off

Sleeves

Working on RS, rejoin yarn with a sl st underarm, ch2

Round 1: dc evenly around armhole, join with a sl st, ch2, turn

Round 2:  dc in ea st around, join with a sl st, ch2, turn

Round 3 – 20, (20, 21, 21, 22, 22) rep round 2

DO NOT FASTEN OFF

Ribbed Cuff

Set up round – cont from end of last round

Ch1, sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog, *sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog, *rep around

Ch10

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc to cuff edge, sl st in next 2 sts on cuff edge, turn

Row 2: scblo to last st, sc in last st, ch1, turn

Row 3: sc in 1st st, scblo in ea st to cuff edge, sl st in next 2 sts on cuff edge, turn

Rep rows 2 and 3 around cuff

Join cuff with sl st through 1 loop on start and end of round

Fasten off

Rep for other sleeve

Hood

If you are not crocheting the hood, skip these instructions and move on to the edging

Setting up Width of Hood

From the shoulder seam on both sides of the front count 5 rows down and place a st marker on the neck edge. 

Rejoin yarn with a sl st at st marker on RHS, ch2

Row 1: dc evenly around to next st marker, ch2, turn

Remove st markers

Row 2: dc in ea st across, ch2, turn

Rep row 2 until hood measures 30.5cm/12”

Place st marker at centre st of last row

Shape First Side

Row 1: dc across to within 2 sts of centre st marker, turn, leave rem sts unworked, ch2

Row 2: dc in ea st across, ch2, turn

Row 3: dc in ea st across to within the last 2 sts, turn, leave rem sts unworked, ch2

Row 4: dc in ea st across

Fasten off

Shape Second Side

Sk 2 sts to left of centre marker and rejoin yarn

Row 1: dc in ea st across, ch2, turn

Row 2: dc in ea st across, turn

Row 3: sl st in first 3 sts, ch2, dc in ea st across, ch2, turn

Row 4: dc in ea st across

Fasten off

Assembling Hood

Working on WS, place shaped sides together and line up to match.

Sew seam along the top of the top edge down to the st marker

Fasten off

Button Placement

If you are not fastening your cardigan, skip these instructions and go straight to edging

Lay the cardigan flat

On the LHS (as worn) of the front edging space your buttons evenly from just above the hem to the start of the neck shaping.

Once you are happy with your button placement, use a st marker on the edge to mark where your button will be. 

On the RHS (as worn) use a st marker in the corresponding row to mark where your buttonhole will be.

If you use the same size buttons as this pattern (30mm diameter) you can space your buttons 12 – 14 cm apart from the 4th row up from the hem to the neck shaping

Edging

If you are not adding buttons, follow instructions but leave out the chain and skipped stitch.  If you have not added a hood, you will work around the back of the neck

Working on RS rejoin yarn with sl st at hem on RHS (as worn), ch1

Row 1: sc evenly from hem up RHS, around hood and back down LHS to hem, ch1, turn

Row 2: hdc in ea st to end, ch1, turn

Row 3 (buttonhole row): *hdc to st before 1st st marker, ch1, sk1, * rep to last st marker, hdc in ea st to hem on LHS, ch1, turn

Row 4: hdc in ea st and ch-sp to end

Fasten off

Line up each button on LHS (as worn) with st marker

Sew button to 2nd row from edge

Pockets

(make 2)

Ch24

Row 1 (RS): dc in 3rd ch from hook, dc in ea ch across, ch2, turn

Row 2: dc in ea st across, ch2, turn

Row 3 – 10: rep row 2

Row 11: *fpdc in next st, bpdc in next st, * rep to last st, dc in last st, ch2, turn

Row 12:  rep row 11

Fasten off leaving a long enough tail to sew around 3 edges of pocket

Pocket Placement

With RS facing outwards

Experiment with the best place for your pockets.  If you want to follow this pattern for pocket placements, line up 2 cm from front edging and 3rd row up from hem

Pin pockets in place

Sew side, bottom and side of pocket to fabric

Rep on the other side

Congratulations!  Your chunky cardigan is finished.

Copyright Notice

The pattern and photographs of this design are the property of Sharon Goodwin at Jera’s Jamboree.  This pattern and design are subject to copyright and are for personal, non-commercial use only.  You may not share, resell, alter or redistribute this pattern in part or in whole. You may, however, sell any finished items you make.  If you would like to include this pattern in a roundup, you may take one photo and link back to this pattern.

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No time now?  Pin the image below to your favourite board for later.

Pinterest pin showing a woman wearing a crochet chunky cardigan with her hands in the pockets, side aspect with the hood up and front aspect with the hood up.  Text reads 'Free Pattern - chunky crochet cardigan'

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