Long Cardigan Crochet Pattern: Cozy Duster for All Sizes

Crocheted with Aran/Worsted weight yarn and featuring the beautiful floret stitch, my edge-to-edge long cardigan crochet pattern offers a dense and cozy fabric—perfect for autumn/fall and winter layering. 

Oversized with plenty of positive ease, you can comfortably wear your finished cardigan over other garments.  Wear it as a jacket giving you an extra layer out and about on those crisp autumnal days or over sweaters indoors on a cold winter’s day.

The pattern is free to view here on the blog.  You can also upgrade to a PDF in my Etsy and Ravelry stores.

The clear written instructions are in US crochet terms (with a UK conversation for basic stitches) for sizes S to 5X and guide you step-by-step, showing you how to crochet a long cardigan.

I’ve included instructions for adding pockets, as well as creative ideas for a belt to cinch the waist and add a stylish finish.

I hope you’re excited to get creating my stunning duster cardigan?  I know you’ll love to wear it all season long!

Happy crocheting

Why you’ll Love to Crochet this Long Cardigan

Skill Level

Easy

Supplies and Materials

• 5mm / H-8 crochet hook (I’ve used these hooks for several years)
• Emu Classic Aran Yarn; 1714, (1876, 2088, 2256, 2480, 2644, 2886, 3062) yds
• Stitch Markers (these Harlequin stitch markers are my favourite)
• Scissors
• Yarn Needle

Yarn Choices

I purchased Emu Classic Aran from The Knitting Network specifically for this cardigan.  Having worked with this yarn before, I knew it would be just right for the texture and drape. There are 21 shades to choose from – I went for Biscotti, a neutral colour that will look good with almost any other colour.

Gauge

Using a 5mm / H-8 hook

14 stitches and 7 rows of double crochet = 10cm X 10cm / 4in X 4in

7 florets and 9 rows of Floret pattern = 10cm X 10cm / 4in X 4in

If you’ve substituted the yarn or are having difficulty matching my pattern gauge with your personal gauge, use the stitch gauge convertor tool to adjust your stitches.

Glossary

Stitches and Abbreviations

You will need to know how to work these stitches:

• Single crochet (sc)
• Single crochet 2 together (sc2tog)
• Double crochet (dc)
• Double crochet 2 together (dc2tog)
• Front Post Double Crochet (fpdc)
• Back Post Double Crochet (bpdc)
• Slip stitch (sl st)

Right Side (rs)

Wrong Side (ws)

Chain (ch)

Each (ea)

Repeat (rep)

Stitch/es (st/s)

Skip (sk)

For my UK crocheters, the table below is a conversion of basic crochet stitches from US to UK.

Measurements

The sample size for this cardigan is medium.

Sizes use guidance from the Craft Yarn Council.

How the Crochet Long Cardigan Pattern is worked

The Clara long cardigan is worked in blocks of floret stitch and double crochet.

I wanted to add texture to the design and the floret stitch works perfectly!  This stitch forms what looks like little florets or buds across the fabric.

The floret stitch is created by working a combination of slip stitches and double crochets that alternate across the row.  The height of the double crochet is decreased by the slip stitch and this creates a staggered, floral-like appearance.  I love how easy it is to work this stitch!

The numbers below correspond to the numbers in the process image above.

1. Starting with four rows of ribbing for the hem, the cardigan is worked to the underarm in ‘blocks’ of the floret stitch pattern alternating with ‘blocks’ of double crochet. The lower piece ends on a floret row to keep the continuity of the stitch sequence.  The pattern then divides for the right front, back and left front.  There is no shaping for the left and right fronts.  Stitches are skipped to create the armholes and the number of unworked stitches is different for each size.
2. The shoulder seams are worked next by laying the cardigan out flat with wrong side facing outwards.  You’ll fold the fronts over the back, lining up and pinning (you can use stitch markers) before sewing the seam.
3. The sleeves are worked directly onto the garment in rounds which are joined with a slip stitch and turned at the end of each round.  Yarn is rejoined underarm.  The pattern is written for bracelet length sleeves. The cuff is worked in rounds of floret stitch.

To finish off, rows of front post and back post double crochets are worked from the hem, up the right front, along the back of the neck and back down to the hem.

Pockets are optional.  Crocheted in double crochet, the top of the pocket is ribbed to give structure.  I’ve written instructions for crocheting pockets in the pattern.  The image below shows the placement but if you decide to add the pockets, totally up to you where you place them.

Optional Belt: The fronts of this cardigan can be closed together with a belt.  I haven’t included instructions for a belt but if you wanted to add a belt, here are some ideas for you:

• Determine the length you would like your belt and chain the number of stitches needed, work rows 5 and 6 of this pattern (floret stitch) to your preferred width and tie around your waist
• Tunisian crochet belt using a regular crochet hook – YouTube how to video tutorial
• How to crochet a Romanian Cord Belt – YouTube Tutorial
• Fancy Fan Stitch Crochet Belt Tutorial

Related Crochet Cardigan Patterns

• Worked in 7 rectangles, the Selene long cardigan looks great worn with anything! 
• My hooded granny stitch cardigan with button closures is the perfect garment to wear during autumn –  or if you’re looking for an easier cardigan, take a look at my beginner friendly granny stitch cardigan pattern.
• Suitable for wearing all year, you’ll have this two-row repeat cardigan worked up in no time

Duster Pattern Notes

• Pattern is written in US crochet terms
• Multiples of 2 plus 3 for starting chain
• Sizes are written thus: S, (M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X)
• Chain 1 does not count as a stitch
• Chain 2 turning chain for the fronts and back count as a double crochet
• Chain 2 turning chain for pockets count as a double crochet
• Chain 3 turning chain for sleeves count as a double crochet
• Sleeves are worked in rounds, joined to the top of chain 3 with a slip stitch and turned to start the next round
• Chain 3 for the ribbing counts as a double crochet
• I work my turning chain at the end of a row/round to keep the edges neat.  If you’re used to working the turning chain at the start, that works too
• Repeated instructions are noted with * for example, *dc in next st, sl st in next st, * rep across.  You will work *one double crochet in the next stitch, slip stitch in the next stitch* and repeat this across the row
• Make sure you don’t work the slip stitch in row 6 (and repeats) too tightly – this is worked into in the next row and will save you frustration!
• Dividing for fronts and back – the skipped stitches are for the armhole.  The stitch markers are used to mark where the yarn is joined to work on the back and the left front
• Armholes and sleeves have positive ease to give room for wearing garments underneath
• Weave in ends as you go

Testimonials

21 Sep 2024, Etsy 5 star review. Text reads “Just getting into the meat of the pattern but so easy and so pretty. Well written instructions. Thanks.”

Long Cardigan Crochet Instructions US Terms

With a 5mm / H-8 hook

Ch 123, (139, 153, 167, 181, 195, 209, 225)

Lower piece to underarm

Row 1 (RS): dc in 4^th ch from hook, dc in ea ch across, ch3, turn

Row 2 (WS): *fpdc in next st, bpdc in next st, * rep across to last st, dc in last st, ch3, turn

Row 3: *bpdc in next st, fpdc in next st, * rep across to last st, dc in last st, ch3, turn

Row 4: rep row 2, ch2, turn

Row 5: dc in ea st across, ch1, turn

Row 6: sl st in base of ch1, *dc in next st, sl st in next st, * rep across ending with a dc in last st, ch2, turn

Row 7 – 32: rep rows 5 and 6

Row 33 – 45: rep row 5

Row 46 – 68: rep row 5 and 6

Divide for fronts and back

First Front

Row 69: dc in next 27, (29, 33, 36, 38, 41, 43, 47) sts, sk 2, (4, 4, 4, 4, 6, 6, 8. 8) sts, place a st marker in the next st, ch2, turn leaving rem sts unworked

Row 70 – 84, (85, 87, 88, 89, 90, 92, 93): dc in ea st across

Fasten off leaving a long tail to sew the shoulder seam

Back

Rejoin yarn at st marker

Row 69: dc in next 60, (68, 74, 82, 88, 96, 102, 110) sts, sk 2, (4, 4, 4, 4, 6, 6, 8, 8) sts, place a st marker in the next st, ch2, turn leaving rem sts unworked

Row 70 – 84, (85, 87, 88, 89, 90, 92, 93): dc in ea st across

Fasten off

Second Front

Rejoin yarn at st marker

Row 69 – 84, (85, 87, 88, 89, 90, 92, 93): dc in ea st across

Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing the seam

Shoulder Seams

Lay the cardigan out flat with RS facing inwards

Fold over and line up the fronts with the back

Sew shoulder seams

Fasten off

Sleeves

Make sure you work the same number of stitches for each sleeve in round 1

With WS facing, rejoin yarn underarm, ch3

Round 1: dc evenly around, join with a sl st, ch3, turn

Round 2: dc2tog, *dc in next 5 sts, dc2tog, * rep around, join with a sl st, ch3, turn

Round 3: dc in ea st around, join with sl st, ch3, turn

Round 4 – 21: rep round 3

Round 22: *dc2tog, dc in next 6 sts, * rep around, join with a sl st, ch3, turn

Try on cardigan and check sleeve length – rounds 23 to 30 add approximately 3” to sleeve.  You will need to add this measurement when trying on.  If you need a shorter sleeve, work less repeats of dc from round 4 to 21.  If you need a longer sleeve, work more repeats.  When you continue, make sure your next round (which is round 23 below) is worked on the WS.

Round 23 (WS): rep row 6 of lower piece

Round 24: rep round 3

Round 25: rep round 23

Round 26: rep round 3

Round 27: rep round 23

Round 28: rep round 3

Round 29: rep round 23

Round 30: sc in 1^st st, sc2tog, *sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog, * rep around, join with a sl st

Fasten off

Rep round 1 – 30 for second sleeve

Edging

Rejoin yarn on RS at hem on right front edge

Row 1: sc evenly up right front, along back of neck, down left front to hem, ch3, turn

Row 2: dc in ea st around, ch3, turn

Row 3: *fpdc in next st, bpdc in next st, *rep around to last st, dc in last st, ch3, turn

Row 4: if you ended row 3 with bpdc, begin with fpdc, if you ended with fpdc, begin with bpdc, alternate these stitches to last st, dc, in last st, ch3, turn

Row 5 and 6: rep row 4 of edging

Fasten off

Optional Pockets

Ch26

Row 1: dc in 3^rd ch from hook, dc in ea ch across, ch2, turn

Row 2: dc in ea st across, ch2, turn

Row 3 – 11: rep row 2

Ribbing for top of pocket

Row 12: *fpdc in next st, bpdc in next st, * rep across to last st, dc in last st, ch2, turn

Row 13: *bpdc in next st, fpdc in next st, * rep across to last st, dc in last st

Fasten off leaving a long tail to sew 3 sides of the pocket closed.

Pocket Placement

My recommendation is to line up row 1 of the pocket with row 33 on the front (the start of the dc block from the hem) and place centrally between front edging and side.  Refer to image in ‘how the pattern is worked’ section to see how the placement looks.

Pin in place and sew around 3 sides leaving the top (ribbed) open.

Fasten off

Repeat on the other side

Congratulations, your cardigan is finished!

Copyright Notice

The pattern and photographs of this design are the property of Sharon Goodwin at Jera’s Jamboree.  This pattern and design are subject to copyright and are for personal, non-commercial use only.  You may not share, resell, alter or redistribute this pattern in part or in whole. You may, however, sell any finished items you make.  If you would like to include this pattern in a roundup, you may take one photo and link back to this pattern.

Pin it for Later

No time now? Pin the image below for later: