This granny square cardigan is constructed with one large classic granny square for the back, smaller classic granny squares for the left and right front, with the sleeves crocheted in granny stitch clusters.
Sizing is made-to-measure using your chest measurements for the width. The length is entirely up to you!
Construction is the same for all sizes.
The pattern is available in UK crochet terms and US crochet terms.
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You can use any combination of colours or granny square designs, making this cardigan unique to you (I think the flower square I used in my granny square tote bag would look fab!).
Keeping your crafting costs down? Using your odds and ends from your stash will work well for this project.
My free granny square crochet cardigan pattern is suitable for beginners.
I’ve added rows of granny stitch/treble clusters to the length on the front and the back.
The edging for the front of the granny square cardigan is made by crocheting rows of slip stitches.
Design Inspiration
My mother-in-law (Stella) was coming to stay for a break and when we go out for retail therapy, she always buys a top or a cardigan.
I had her favourite colours in my stash, wanted a project I could pick up in short bursts of time and something that was quick and easy to make. Designing this crochet granny square cardigan pattern fitted the bill exactly 🙂
How the pattern is worked
I’ve written the pattern in UK and US Crochet terms.
The large classic granny square for the back is worked first. The size is worked out using your chest circumference measurement.
How to determine the size of your granny square is in the Measurements section.
Smaller classic granny squares are crocheted next.
For the sample size of M/L I crocheted 16 squares of 4 rounds each for the front of the cardigan.
These granny squares are sewn together to form two columns. For the sample size of M/L, I needed 4 granny squares in each column lengthwise to match the back.
Length is added by crocheting granny cluster stitches to the bottom making sure the front and the back match.
The sleeves are crocheted separately and begin with a ribbed cuff. To match the granny squares, the sleeves are worked in rounds of granny cluster stitches. The sleeve is sewn into the armhole.
To assemble, the shoulders are seamed, making sure there is an opening of 20cm (10 cm either side of the middle of the back) for the neck opening. The sleeves are sewn in next followed by continuing to sew the side seam.
Finishing off: the front edging of each side is crocheted in rows of double crochet (US single crochet).
Related Crochet Cardigan Patterns
- You’ll find different designs and constructions in this collection of free granny square cardigans.
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- Two hexagons also look great as a pullover! Check out the Moon Shimmer sweater pattern.
- Worked in 7 rectangles, the Selene long cardigan looks great worn with a dress or t-shirt and jeans. You’ll find different designs in this collection of free long cardigan patterns.
- My hooded granny stitch cardigan is the perfect garment to wear during spring and summer
- Looking for a quick make? These chunky cardigan patterns could be just what you need.
- If you’re wondering what to do with those odds and ends in your yarn stash (and a blanket just isn’t grabbing your interest), have a browse of these of patchwork cardigan patterns.
- Looking for simple but stylish? You’ll love this cocoon cardigan.
- Planning your summer makes? Try this lacy cardigan. This bright striped cardigan or long-sleeved cardigan worked in open stitches are great for summer too. Browse these free summer crochet cardigans for inspiration.
- Suitable for wearing all year, you’ll have this two-row repeat cardigan worked up in no time.
Yarn
A few months ago, I tested out buying yarn in one of Joann’s sales and Big Twist Aran/Worsted yarn was a complete surprise in the package. Some of the yarn I ordered wasn’t in the package but Big Twist was.
At the time I didn’t have a project in mind but it was a good match for this project. I’m glad I was able to try it out.
This yarn is durable and functional.
I needed extra and was able to colour match with Emu Classic Aran I had in my stash.
The Emu Classic does work out cheaper than the Big Twist so if you’re in the UK and thinking of buying your colours, this range is worth considering.
If you enjoy working with granny squares, have a browse of these granny square projects and patterns
Pattern Notes
- Chain 1 does not count as a stitch.
- Chain 2 counts as a treble crochet (US double crochet).
- Chain 4 counts as a treble and 1 chain.
- Granny squares start with a ch4 to begin and working into the first chain.
- Large granny square (back) and smaller granny squares (front) have chain 1 space between clusters.
- No chain spaces are used between clusters on the sleeves.
- Weave a length of yarn through the last stitch when crocheting the sleeves to guide you for where to work the last stitch of each round (the closing stitch isn’t worked into).
- Use a standing stitch to join new yarn colour: make a slip knot on hook, insert into chain space, yarn over, double crochet.
- Weaving in ends for each square before crocheting the next one is less overwhelming!
- When sewing in the sleeves, match the clusters.
- Read through the pattern before you start.
- Sample size is M/L
Level
Easy
Related Granny Square Patterns
- Granny Square Projects and Patterns
- Granny Square Poncho Victoria
- Granny Square Scarf
- Granny Square Bucket Hat
- Granny Square Lap Blanket
- Queen of Diamonds Poncho
Materials
- Aran/Worsted weight yarn – I used 1 skein each of Big Twist in Lilac, Purple and Varsity Navy Blue (380 yards/ 347 meters / 170g) plus extra yarn from the Emu Classic Aran range that was in my stash (Lilac, Purple and Navy)
- 5mm crochet hook
- Stitch Markers
- Tape Measure
- Yarn needle
Stitches and Abbreviations
dc = double crochet / US single crochet
tr = treble crochet / US double crochet
- blo = back loop only
- ch = chain
- rep = repeat
- sl st = slip stitch
- st/s = stitch/es
- sp = space
- ea = each
- tog = together
- sk = skip
- WS = wrong side
- RS = right side
- RHS = right hand side
Measurements
This granny square cardigan is made-to-measure.
Large granny square (back): Measure your chest circumference with a tape measure and divide by 2 (for the front and back). Add between 5 – 10cm for movement (known as positive ease).
Smaller granny squares (front): 2 columns of granny squares for each side (left and right) are needed so you need to divide your chest measurement by 4 (don’t forget to add positive ease!).
Sleeves: Measure the length of your sleeves by either using a favourite sweater or cardigan and using the same length or try on the sleeve as you crochet for the perfect fit.
Granny Square Cardigan Instructions UK Crochet Terms
Back
Classic Granny Square
Round 1: ch4, 2 tr into 1st ch, *ch2, 3tr into same ch, *rep 2 more times, ch2, sl st to top of 1st tr to join.
Fasten off.
Round 2: join new colour into any corner sp with a standing st, [ch2, 2tr, ch2, 3tr], *ch1, [3tr, ch2, 3tr], * rep 2 more times, ch1, join with a slt st to top of tr.
Fasten off.
Round 3: join new colour in any corner sp with a standing st, [ch2, 2tr, ch3, 3tr], *ch1, 3tr in ch1-sp, [3tr, ch2, 3tr] into corner sp, *rep round, ch1, join with a sl st to top of tr.
Rep round 3 fastening off each colour and rejoining until you reach your chest measurement.
If you are making a cropped granny square cardigan, you won’t need to add any length.
If you are crocheting a longer cardigan, you will need to add rows of granny cluster stitches until you reach your desired length.
Final row: ch1, sl st in this st and ea st across.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Front
Smaller granny squares.
Use the classic granny square pattern as for back.
For each granny square, continue until you reach the measurement of your chest divided by 4.
For this sample size M/L I crocheted 16 granny squares of four rounds each.
As for the back, stop here for a cropped cardigan. For a longer cardigan, continue as back until you match the length of the back.
Sleeve (make 2)
Cuff
Ch11
Row 1: dc 2nd ch from hook, dc blo to last st, dc in last st, turn
Row 2: ch1, dc in 1st st, dc blo to last st, dc in last st, turn
Row 3 – 24: rep row 2
Before moving on, wrap the cuff around your wrist to make sure it is comfortable.
Ch1, bring the bottom of the cuff to the top and double crochet both sides tog to join. This is the WS
DO NOT FASTEN OFF
Working in rounds
Round 1: ch1, pick up 36 dc evenly around cuff, sl st to join
Turn work inside out to continue working on the RS
Round 2: ch2, tr in same st, tr across, sl st to join
Granny stitch begins
Use the same colour you used for round 1 and 2
Round 3: ch3, 2 tr into same st, *sk 2 sts, 3 tr into next st, * rep round, join with a sl st. Fasten off this colour
Rejoin yarn between any granny cluster
Round 4: ch3, 2tr in same sp, *3 tr between each granny cluster, * rep round, join with a sl st
Rep round 4 changing colour to your desired length.
OPTIONAL: rejoin a different colour yarn to the cuff, ch1, sl st in this st and round. Fasten off.
Weave in ends.
How to assemble granny square cardigan
Front
Join the columns of granny squares for the left and right front either:
- Sl st squares together – for a patchwork effect, sew with WS facing inwards (the seam will show on the RS of the cardigan) or with RS facing inwards (no seams will show)
- Sewing squares together using whip stitch – work with the RS facing inwards
I assembled the granny squares by sewing two together and then each group of two going down the column.
Once joined together, place the granny square panels on top of the back and check the gap between the front and left isn’t too wide.
If it is too wide, rejoin yarn and work rows of granny stitch clusters. Keep in mind there is also a double crochet border. Make sure you work the rows on the edge that will be the centre (and not the side seam).
Shoulder seams
With RS facing inwards, find the centre of the back and place a stitch marker 10cm to the left and another stitch marker 10cm to the right for the neck opening.
Seam the front panels from the edge of the front towards the stitch marker in the middle for both right and left.
Sleeves and Side Seam
Pin the sleeves in place and matching the clusters, sew around the armhole beginning from underneath the armhole.
When you reach where you started, DO NOT FASTEN OFF. Continue sewing the side seam matching the clusters.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Edging
Front and back of neck
Row 1: Rejoin colour of your choice to the neck opening on the RHS, ch1, dc evenly along the front right, along the back of the neck and the left front, turn
Row 2: ch1, sl st in the same st and ea st along. Fasten off and sew in ends.
Front Opening
Rejoin yarn at the bottom of the left opening, ch1, sl st in this st and ea st across. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Rep above for the right opening.
Granny Square Cardigan Instructions US Crochet Terms
Back
Classic Granny Square
Round 1: ch4, 2 dc into 1st ch, *ch2, 3dc into same ch, *rep 2 more times, ch2, sl st to top of 1st dc to join.
Fasten off.
Round 2: join new colour into any corner sp with a standing st, [ch2, 2dc, ch2, 3dc], *ch1, [3dc, ch2, 3dc], * rep 2 more times, ch1, join with a slt st to top of dc.
Fasten off.
Round 3: join new colour in any corner sp with a standing st, [ch2, 2dc, ch3, 3dc], *ch1, 3dc in ch1-sp, [3dc, ch2, 3dc] into corner sp, *rep round, ch1, join with a sl st to top of dc.
Rep round 3 fastening off each colour and rejoining until you reach your chest measurement.
If you are making a cropped granny square cardigan, you won’t need to add any length.
If you are crocheting a longer cardigan, you will need to add rows of granny cluster stitches until you reach your desired length.
Final row: ch1, sl st in this st and ea st across.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Front
Smaller granny squares.
Use the classic granny square pattern as for back.
For each granny square, continue until you reach the measurement of your chest divided by 4.
For this sample size M/L I crocheted 16 granny squares of four rounds each.
As for the back, stop here for a cropped cardigan. For a longer cardigan, continue as back until you match the length of the back.
Sleeve (make 2)
Cuff
Ch11
Row 1: sc 2nd ch from hook, sc blo to last st, sc in last st, turn
Row 2: ch1, sc in 1st st, sc blo to last st, sc in last st, turn
Row 3 – 24: rep row 2
Before moving on, wrap the cuff around your wrist to make sure it is comfortable.
Ch1, bring the bottom of the cuff to the top and double crochet both sides tog to join. This is the WS
DO NOT FASTEN OFF
Working in rounds
Round 1: ch1, pick up 36 sc evenly around cuff, sl st to join
Turn work inside out to continue working on the RS
Round 2: ch2, dc in same st, dc across, sl st to join
Granny stitch begins
Use the same colour you used for round 1 and 2
Round 3: ch3, 2 dc into same st, *sk 2 sts, 3 dc into next st, * rep round, join with a sl st. Fasten off this colour
Rejoin yarn between any granny cluster
Round 4: ch3, 2dc in same sp, *3 dc between each granny cluster, * rep round, join with a sl st
Rep round 4 changing colour to your desired length.
OPTIONAL: rejoin a different colour yarn to the cuff, ch1, sl st in this st and round. Fasten off.
Weave in ends.
Assembly
Front
Join the columns of granny squares for the left and right front either:
- Sl st squares together – for a patchwork effect, sew with WS facing inwards (the seam will show on the RS of the cardigan) or with RS facing inwards (no seams will show)
- Sewing squares together using whip stitch – work with the RS facing inwards
I assembled the granny squares by sewing two together and then each group of two going down the column.
Once joined together, place the granny square panels on top of the back and check the gap between the front and left isn’t too wide.
If it is too wide, rejoin yarn and work rows of granny stitch clusters. Keep in mind there is also a double crochet border. Make sure you work the rows on the edge that will be the centre (and not the side seam).
Shoulder seams
With RS facing inwards, find the centre of the back and place a stitch marker 10cm to the left and another stitch marker 10cm to the right for the neck opening.
Seam the front panels from the edge of the front towards the stitch marker in the middle for both right and left.
Sleeves and Side Seam
Pin the sleeves in place and matching the clusters, sew around the armhole beginning from underneath the armhole.
When you reach where you started, DO NOT FASTEN OFF. Continue sewing the side seam matching the clusters.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Edging
Front and back of neck
Row 1: Rejoin colour of your choice to the neck opening on the RHS, ch1, dc evenly along the front right, along the back of the neck and the left front, turn
Row 2: ch1, sl st in the same st and ea st along. Fasten off and sew in ends.
Front Opening
Rejoin yarn at the bottom of the left opening, ch1, sl st in this st and ea st across. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Rep above for the right opening.
Happy crocheting!
Copyright Notice
The pattern and photographs of this design are the property of Sharon Goodwin at Jera’s Jamboree. This pattern and design are subject to copyright and are for personal, non-commercial use only. You may not share, resell, alter or redistribute this pattern in part or in whole. You may, however, sell any finished items you make. If you would like to include this pattern in a roundup, you may take one photo and link back to this pattern.
