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Easy Crochet Sweater Pattern (Mystic Garden)

This relaxed fit easy crochet sweater pattern is worked in treble crochet (US double crochet) with minimal shaping for the armholes and neckline making it suitable for beginners.

I’ve written the instructions for sizes XS, S, M, L, XL, 2X.

woman standing with her hands on her hips wearing a crocheted sweater and jeans

The front and back use self-striping yarn (less ends to sew in!) while the sleeves, cuffs and bottom rib are worked in a block of colour to match the colour palette from the body of the sweater.

You can choose to crochet your sweater in one colour.

I have provided yarn amounts in the materials section for crocheting the sweater in one colour and for self-striping yarn for the front and back and one colour for the sleeves and rib.

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I’ve used chunky yarn which works up quickly. 

You’ll be wearing your crochet sweater in no time!

sweater crocheted in treble crochet (US double crochet) styled on a mannequin

Design Inspiration

I’ve had the yarn in my stash for at least five years having intended to crochet a poncho but I moved on to other projects and it got left hidden at the bottom of the stash (I see you nodding along 🙂 )  but I’ve had a sort out of my yarn recently.

With the colder weather fast approaching and our heating lowered a few degrees to help combat the higher cost of living, I’ve been focusing more on crocheted garments to keep the chill out and keep me warm!

I wanted to design a crochet sweater pattern that would be suitable for beginners and work up quickly and this yarn was perfect.

The pattern is named Mystic Garden because it reminds me of fairy paths through a woodland.

the side view of a crocheted sweater styled on a mannequin

How the pattern is worked

The front, back and sleeves are worked in basic treble crochet stitches (US double crochet stitches).

The ribbing on the bottom hem and the cuffs of the sleeves is worked in double crochet (US single crochet) stitches in the back loop only.

This easy crochet sweater pattern is crocheted flat, two separate pieces for the front and back that are sewn together by the shoulder and side seams.

Once both pieces are sewn together, the stitches around the armholes are picked up evenly to work the sleeves in the round, changing direction at the end of each round to keep the seam straight.

Both front and back begin with the ribbing and the work is turned to continue crocheting along the long edge.

8 rows of crocheted ribbing with the crochet hook and yarn
Begin with the ribbing
crocheted ribbing with a crochet hook and blue ball of yarn
Turn to work along the long edge

There is minimal shaping as I wanted to give the sweater some definition while still making it easy.

Both front and back have one row of decreases to form the armhole before the pattern continues to the neck.  This is achieved by slip stitches at the start of the row and leaving stitches unworked at the end of the row.

The front of the sweater has one row of decreases to form the neckline.  This is achieved by crocheting the right number of stitches for your size and leaving the remaining stitches unworked.  Once the right neck has been crocheted, yarn is re-joined for the left neck.  Stitches are skipped and the left neck is crocheted.

front and back of a crocheted sweater sewn together
Minimal shaping for the armholes and neckline

The sleeve ribbing is worked in rounds from the bottom of the sleeve using the same technique as my hexagon cardigan pattern.

sewing the edges of the sleeve cuff together
Sewing the sleeve cuff ribbing

To finish, a row of double crochet (US single crochet) stitches are worked around the neckline and back of the sweater.

Related Patterns:

If you like crocheting with different stitches and techniques, you might like the Fruitdrop sweater.  This pattern has an unusual construction with the body crocheted in ripple stitch and the sleeves in granny squares.

Have you tried a raglan style jumper?  The Le Jardin pattern is worked from the top down.

Enjoy crocheting with different shapes? You’ll love the Moon Shimmer Hexagon sweater with an optional hood. This pattern has an unusual construction.

Looking to crochet your first sweater? Have a browse of these easy-to-follow free sweater patterns.

Yarn

I used Robin Phoenix Chunky for the front and back of the sweater which has sadly been discontinued. 

Find a list of substitutes on yarnsub.

For the sleeves and ribbing I used Hayfield Bonus Chunky in Petrol and Lime Green.

You can substitute any chunky yarn but you MUST crochet your swatch first and if you need to, adjust your hook size to meet the gauge.

If your gauge swatch is smaller or you have more stitches and rows, use a larger size hook. If it’s bigger and you have fewer stitches and rows per cm, use a smaller size hook.

woman standing with her hands on hips to show the design of a crochet sweater
Self striping yarn front and back, block of colour for the sleeves and rib

Pattern Notes

  • Chain 2 counts as a stitch.
  • Chain 1 does not count as a stitch.
  • Making the turning chain at the end of a row will keep the edges straight.
  • Sweater is crocheted from the bottom up.
  • Sleeves are worked directly into the armhole.
  • The sample size is large.

Level

Easy

Materials

  • Chunky yarn:  TOTAL 662 (738, 867, 999, 1146, 1266) yards   /   606 (675, 793, 914, 1048, 1158) metres

Self-striping yarn (front and back): 448 (512, 617, 711, 810, 882) yards  /  410 (468, 564, 650, 741, 807) metres

Single colour (sleeves and rib): 214 (226, 250, 288, 336, 384) yards  /  196 (207, 229, 263, 307, 351) metres

  • 6mm crochet hook (or necessary to match gauge)
  • Scissors
  • Yarn needle for sewing in ends

Gauge/Tension

11 stitches and 7 rows of treble crochet with a 6mm hook = 10cm x 10cm

Gauge is critical for this crochet project.

Schematics

Diagram showing the measurements in cm for a crocheted sweater
diagram showing the measurements of sleeves for a crochet sweater

Stitches and Abbreviations

Double Crochet (dc)  /  US Single Crochet

Treble Crochet (tr)  /  US Double Crochet

  • Ch = chain
  • St/s = stitch(es)
  • Blo = back loop only
  • Rep = repeat
  • Ea = each
  • Sl st = slip stitch

Measurements

Sizes follow the standards from the Craft Yarn Council.

All chest sizes have an additional 7.5cm positive ease added for comfort (front and back).

I have added 2cm of ease for the armhole depth measurement.

This pattern is explained for 6 sizes with the following measuring references:

Chest circumference

Size X-Small:  73 cm + positive ease

Size Small:   83 cm + positive ease

Size Medium:  93.5 cm + positive ease

Size Large:  105cm + positive ease

Size X-Large:  114.5cm + positive ease

Size 2X:  125cm + positive ease

Sizes are written in the pattern as follows:

XS (S, M, L, XL, 2X)

For example, row 3 to 24 (25, 25, 26, 26, 27) means XS = 24, S = 25,  M = 25,  L = 26, 2X = 27

montage of four photos showing the ribbing, front and side of a crocheted sweater

Easy Crochet Sweater Pattern (Mystic Garden)

Instructions UK Crochet Terms

Front and Back

Ribbed hem

With 6mm hook, ch9

Row 1: dc in 2nd ch from hook, dc across, ch1, turn (8dc)

Row 2: dc in base of st, dc blo in next 6 sts, dc in last st, ch1, turn (2dc, 6dc blo)

Row 3 – 48 (54, 60, 66, 72, 77) rep row 2, ch1

Turn to work along the long edge

Row 1: dc in base of st, dc evenly across, ch2, turn (48, 54, 60, 66, 72, 77 dc)

Row 2: tr in ea st across, ch2, turn (48, 54, 60, 66, 72, 77 tr)

Row 3 – 24 (25, 25, 26, 26, 27): rep row 2

Armhole shaping

Row 25 (26, 26, 27, 27, 28): ch1, sl st in this and next 4 sts, ch2, tr in next 39 (45, 51, 57, 63, 68) sts, leave remaining sts unworked, ch2 (40, 46, 52, 58, 64, 69 tr)

Row 26 to 36 (37, 37, 38, 38, 39): tr across, ch2, turn

Front only

Neckline shaping (right side)

Row 37 (38, 38, 39, 39, 40): tr in next 13 (15, 17, 19, 21, 23) sts, leave remaining sts unworked, ch2, turn (13, 15, 17, 19, 21, 23 tr)

Row 38 (39, 39, 40, 40, 41): tr across.  Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing shoulder seam.

Neckline shaping (left side)

Row 37 (38, 38, 39, 39, 40): sk 14 (16, 18, 20, 22, 23, 25) sts and re-join yarn, tr in next 13, (15, 17, 19, 21, 23) sts, ch2, turn (13, 15, 17, 19, 21, 23 tr)

Row 38 (39, 39, 40, 40, 41): tr across.  Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing shoulder seam.

Back only

Row 37 – 38 (39, 39, 40, 40, 41): tr across (40, 46, 52, 58, 64, 69 tr)

Fasten off.

Assembly

Place front and back pieces with their right sides inwards. Sew the shoulder seam first and then the side seams.

Sleeves

Join yarn to the seam under the armhole

Round1: ch1, pick up sts evenly around the armhole and work a dc in 38 (39, 41, 44, 48, 54) sts, join with a sl st to ch1 at start of round, ch 2, turn.

Round 2: tr in ea st around, join with a sl st to ch2 from start of round, ch2, turn

Round 3 – 23 (23, 23, 25, 25, 25): rep round 2

Try on your crochet sweater and check to make sure the length of the sleeves are right for you.

The ribbed cuffs measure 6cm. This will be added on to the length of the sleeve so allow 6cm from your wrist.

Crochet more rounds or unpick/frog rounds if you need to (I have short arms so I crocheted less than the Craft Council standard sizes).

Fasten off.

Sleeve Cuffs

Worked by joining yarn to the bottom of the sleeve, chaining and working back down the chain and slip stitch x 3 to the next stitch to work back up the cuff in dc blo and continue around to then sew the two edges of the cuff together.

Re-join yarn

Ch7

Row 1: dc 2nd ch from hook, dc in ea st, sl st next 3 sts of bottom of sleeve, ch1, (6 dc)

Row 2: dc in first st, dc blo in next 4 sts, dc in last st, ch1, turn

Row 3: dc in first st, dc blo in next 4 sts, dc in last st, sl st next 3 sts of bottom of cuff, ch1

Rep rows 2 and 3 to beginning.

Sew both edges of the cuff together.

Fasten off.

Fasten off all loose ends.

Instructions US Crochet Terms

Front and Back

Ribbed hem

With 6mm hook, ch9

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc across, ch1, turn (8sc)

Row 2: sc in base of st, sc blo in next 6 sts, sc in last st, ch1, turn (2sc, 6sc blo)

Row 3 – 48 (54, 60, 66, 72, 77) rep row 2, ch1

Turn to work along the long edge

Row 1: sc in base of st, sc evenly across, ch2, turn (48, 54, 60, 66, 72, 77 sc)

Row 2: dc in ea st across, ch2, turn (48, 54, 60, 66, 72, 77 dc)

Row 3 – 24 (25, 25, 26, 26, 27): rep row 2

Armhole shaping

Row 25 (26, 26, 27, 27, 28): ch1, sl st in this and next 4 sts, ch2, dc in next 39 (45, 51, 57, 63, 68) sts, leave remaining sts unworked, ch2 (40, 46, 52, 58, 64, 69 dc)

Row 26 to 36 (37, 37, 38, 38, 39): dc across, ch2, turn

Front only

Neckline shaping (right side)

Row 37 (38, 38, 39, 39, 40): dc in next 13 (15, 17, 19, 21, 23) sts, leave remaining sts unworked, ch2, turn (13, 15, 17, 19, 21, 23 dc)

Row 38 (39, 39, 40, 40, 41): dc across.  Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing shoulder seam.

Neckline shaping (left side)

Row 37 (38, 38, 39, 39, 40): sk 14 (16, 18, 20, 22, 23, 25) sts and re-join yarn, dc in next 13, (15, 17, 19, 21, 23) sts, ch2, turn (13, 15, 17, 19, 21, 23 dc)

Row 38 (39, 39, 40, 40, 41): dc across.  Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing shoulder seam.

Back only

Row 37 – 38 (39, 39, 40, 40, 41): dc across (40, 46, 52, 58, 64, 69 dc)

Fasten off.

Assembly

Place front and back pieces with their right sides inwards. Sew the shoulder seam first and then the side seams.

Sleeves

Join yarn to the seam under the armhole

Round 1: ch1, pick up sts evenly around the armhole and work a sc in 38 (39, 41, 44, 48, 54) sts, join with a sl st to ch1 at start of round, ch 2, turn.

Round 2: dc in ea st around, join with a sl st to ch2 from start of round, ch2, turn

Round 3 – 23 (23, 23, 25, 25, 25): rep round 2

Try on your crochet sweater and check to make sure the length of the sleeves are right for you.

The ribbed cuffs measure 6cm. This will be added on to the length of the sleeve so allow 6cm from your wrist.

Crochet more rounds or unpick/frog rounds if you need to (I have short arms so I crocheted less than the Craft Council standard sizes).

Fasten off.

Sleeve Cuffs

Worked by joining yarn to the bottom of the sleeve, chaining and working back down the chain and slip stitch x 3 to the next stitch to work back up the cuff in sc blo and continue around to then sew the two edges of the cuff together.

Re-join yarn

Ch7

Row 1: sc 2nd ch from hook, sc in ea st, sl st next 3 sts of bottom of sleeve, ch1, (6 sc)

Row 2: sc in first st, sc blo in next 4 sts, sc in last st, ch1, turn

Row 3: sc in first st, sc blo in next 4 sts, sc in last st, sl st next 3 sts of bottom of cuff, ch1

Rep rows 2 and 3 to beginning.

Sew both edges of the cuff together.

Fasten off.

Fasten off all loose ends.

Happy crocheting!

Copyright Notice

The pattern and photographs of this design are the property of Sharon Goodwin at Jera’s Jamboree.  This pattern and design are subject to copyright and are for personal, non-commercial use only.  You may not share, resell, alter or redistribute this pattern in part or in whole. You may, however, sell any finished items you make.  If you would like to include this pattern in a roundup, you may take one photo and link back to this pattern.

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